The Mekong Delta is body of water where rivers meet oceans in the south of Vietnam. If we would have been so inclined we could have hightailed it to the Indian Ocean–but that is coming up later.

Departing by Boat

Snack Time

More Snacks

We took a bus to the Mekong. The region is one of the poorest in Vietnam. Many families live on their boats here. That means no school for the children. There is a floating market in the Mekong where goods being sold are attached to various parts of the boat to identify their wares to would be buyers.

All-in-one Home, Warehouse, and Store

Living on a Boat

Local Transport

All-you-need Motor

Parking Lot

Typical Home in Mekong Delta

We boarded a boat and went to see how local people live and work. Banking on tourism, we went to see how rice paper is made, then how some local candies are produced. It was interesting to see things being made by hand. I rarely ever see it. We all got to sample the treats and purchase if so inclined.

How To Make Rice Paper

How To Get the Pattern On It

Packaging Coco Candy

How To Make Puff-Rice

Mixing It With Caramel

After we boarded our original boat and then met up with a few people oaring and boarded their tiny boats. The rowers (one to a boat) were standing at the back of the narrow boat with really inefficient oars. The oars were smaller than a canoe paddle, basically giant chop sticks. They were older people doing this and rowed us for half an hour.

Boat Ride

We Blend Right In

Row, Row, Row Your Boat

We arrived at this bustling capital and it is hot and raining. We have a cheap and cheerful dinner at a restaurant called Pho 2000 and there are pictures on the wall of Bill Clinton eating there. The menu is limited. Unlike me, who can eat the same thing day after day, Marc likes a wide variety. He actually insists on it. Of course he missed out on delicious Pho.

Pho 2000

The next day was a day we will never forget. We went to a living museum of the Vietnam war (the American war as it is known here and in most other countries around the world). First we saw a Vietnamese war propaganda video. It was all about honoring the “American Killer Heroes”. That is actually what they are called. It was unsettling.

Propaganda Room

Three Level Tunnel System

Making the trip that much more interesting and adding an invaluable dynamic is our new friend Tom. We sat with him and his wife on the boat cruise in Halong Bay and also shared a sleeper cabin with them on the train. Tom let me know that he had been to Vietnam before and had actually lived here for a year. He was a marine in the Vietnam/American war. It was so fascinating to hear his stories and his perspective which was worldly (he has lived all over) and not very American-centric. We are loving and thriving in his company.

So this living war museum is set in the jungle. After the propaganda video (which Tom assured me the US had the exact same videos–from an American perspective), we saw a demonstration of how to get into the secret tunnels that were used by the Viet Kong. Only for the skinniest of us…

Demo of Tunnel Entry

Now You See Him…

Now You Don’t

The Hole He Went Into

The we went to view some of the horrific and barbaric booby traps which were beyond horrible. The guide was so proud of them. I asked Tom if he ever saw them and he replied “absolutely”. The Viet Kong had the idea to injure, and not always kill the Americans. As Tom explained, wounded soldiers need expensive infrastructure. Dead–you’re dead and you get sent home in a body bag. Patrolling American soldiers would step on the ground and would fall into a huge hole covered in spikes which the Viet Kong had soaked in toilet water for weeks, so avoiding infection was next to impossible. The warfare used during this war was barbaric. Spikes everywhere.

Trap With Spikes

More Horrible Traps

If you wanted to, you could buy a round of bullets for various weapons at a firing range conveniently located next to the concession stand. (We hated this and thought it was in terrible taste). You could purchase a round of ammunition to fire an authentic M6 or other weapon used during the war. Tom could identify the different weapons through the sounds they made when fired. I was worried that the sounds would trigger memories and he was going to have a melt down. He assured me that he was fine and “SO over it”.

Twisted Nature

Posing With Viet Kong

There was a series of tunnels that the Viet Kong built and lived in during the war. Tom said that his unit had what they called tunnel rats. The shortest and smallest guys would be sent in to find and smoke out the enemy. Tom was lucky because he wouldn’t fit. The Viet Kong lived underground during the day light hours. There were three levels of tunnels. We had the opportunity to go through a 15 meter portion of a level one tunnel (the biggest) which they increased in size for the tourists “with big asses–like the Americans”. Despite the fact that the width and the height had been increased by 1/3 it was TINY although the first level was the big one. I went behind Tom and in front of Marc. I was anxious and kept thinking about what happened to Pooh Bear when he went into the rabbit’s hole… The tunnel was dark and little. You had to crawl through it.

Entry to Level One

Tunnel For Tourists

Tom met a Viet Kong soldier at the end of the tunnel and introduced himself as a Marine. It really was a moment of full circle. Once we excited, I took pictures of them both. Tom said that Vietnam was the only place he had ever been to that he really believed he would never leave. He lost his entire unit but came home without a scratch on him. He never thought that he would be back vacationing here.

Peace For All

It really was such a pleasure to meet Tom. It changed the dynamic of our experience and our time spent in Vietnam.

Later that day, we went to the war artifacts museum and it was mostly full of pictures and weaponry. Outside the museum there were tanks and helicopters. Again, it was very one sided, but it was hard to see. So many disturbing pictures. The pictures of the after effects of Agent Orange were the most upsetting. The deformations and birth defects were so unsettling and made me think every minute how lucky I am to be Canadian–the more of the world I see, the more I am convinced without a shadow of a doubt that Canada is the GREATEST country in the world.

Outside of War Museum

More Weapons

Some Ho Chi Minh City photo fun…

Power Line Puzzle

Maintenance Night Mare

The Palace in HCMC (looks like Hamilton City Hall)

We LOVE it here.

Need a Ride?

Marc the friendly helper

Hoi An is a little town is full of western travelers and there are a ton of fun things to do.

Vietnamese Food is YUMMY

View From Hoi An Lighthouse Restaurant

What is the most popular industry here is getting clothes custom made. Store after store–you walk in, choose or create a design and fabric and a few hours later you are having your first fitting.

Yally Taylor

Fabric Selection

We went to Yally which is the oldest and biggest store. Everyone was getting suits made.

Since I am always in need of work clothes, I thought that I would be practical, so obviously the first thing I had made was a tangerine orange full length evening gown. Then I said–self–stay focused. Work clothes. So that led me to a red, short strapless number. OK–get to it. Office. Office. Office. How about a hot pink and black low cut kimono dress? Finally Marc intervened and I got a long black dress with sleeves which I can wear to work–but also to the Spoke Club.

I have never been a fan of getting things made–but this experience was very pleasant. All of the fabric were there, the first fitting was done in a few hours and you could either describe what you wanted or flip through the many books available with western magazine and catalog pictures organized into women’s dresses or men’s pants etc. Stores like this would put the bridesmaid dresses out of business.

Marc and I decided to go to another cooking class considering the fun and good food we had at the last one. We had a guided tour through a market, then took a boat ride to the cooking school/restaurant which we were surprised to see how posh it was. We had a fun time and a delicious meal. We will probably not recreate anything we had–except perhaps for the hot pot of veggies. It was a great time.

Cooking School

Yes, That’s Us

The weather here is like nothing I have known. there has been one serious down pore per day. Of course the sun comes out minutes later, but then starts to rain again. Buckets.

Known and Exotic Food

Hoi An Food Market

Since we had such a fantastic time on our bike ride in china, we thought–why don’t we do it again? I had actually said that I loved riding bikes in China so much that I wanted to do a bike tour in every country we visit. So, after a day of serious down pores it finally stomped at 2pm and at 3pm we met up with a few more brave souls and went to meet our guides for a local bike tour. What do you mean no helmets? None to pleased about that. There were men’s bikes that were mountain bikes, but I went for the bike with the fun basket on the front and the bald tires. Off we went.

Ready for Bike Ride

Typical Rice Paddies

Walking down sidewalks has been a bit unsettling due to the traffic and chaos (Vietnamese use the side walk as an extension of their homes–on a side walk you will find everything from cooking and cleaning to parked motorbikes and manicures), but joining the ranks of cars and motorbikes was crazy. Finally we were out of the traffic and enjoying the Vietnamese countryside. Then our guide turns off the road into a rice paddy. There is water on either side and a narrow muddy path, covered in straw that we started to ride over. We stopped shortly into the ride for a photo shoot and to drag our bikes which kept getting stuck. We asked why the locals were whacking the water. Snakes. So after a few great pictures, off we went. My bike was constantly stuck and I decided that the most efficient way to get out of the rice paddy would be to walk my bike. As I was walking, my feet were totally submerged in the muddy path and my flip flops kept getting stuck. Finally–the end of the paddy path. Relief. I remount my bike and next thing I know we are riding into another rice paddy route–there is a maze of paths, full of sharp turns, puddles and debris. I come around a corner, (SHARP turn I might add), get over taken by a motorcycle which rattles me and I see a big muddy hole and a small piece of a two by four. I panic. Am I supposed to ride over the two by four? Go around it? Shit Shit Shit. Avoid it. Ride to the left of the wood, not that much to the left–oh no! I am sailing down the steep rice paddy bank–into the drink. Yes, Kitty was totally submerged in a Vietnamese rice paddy. Our new camera! That too was totally submerged. I am in the paddy, tangled up with my bike and looking for my flip flop which has come off my foot. I get pulled out and my ribs are killing me. Actually my entire right side is killing me, but I am not broken, and not bleeding. Pheeeew. My right calf has a bruise developing the size of a grapefruit. A motorbike came to get me and takes me back to the hotel. Marc finishes the bike ride and is questioning the safety as there are no helmets and it is dark by the time he gets back. Riding in Vietnamese traffic with no helmet and no lights? Anyhow, thankfully he made it back in one piece and I can officially say that I fell into a rice paddy. I am in an elite group.

Minutes Before the Crash

On the Rice Paddy

Note: One of our fellow travelers took photos after the fall. We will post them when we get them ;-)

The food continues to be delicious in Vietnam. Mina sent me a message saying that Anthony Bourdain believes Pho to be one of the most perfect dishes in the world. That being said, I have been having Pho almost every day.

This brings me to my new favorite vegetable–Morning glory. I feel slightly addicted. I first tried it on the cruise in China in the 3 gorges. One of the people I was dining with was Chinese and let me know that in China pregnant women are not allowed to eat this vegetable. The Chinese view eating this vegetable the same as drinking or smoking.

At the Market

The vegetable looks like a spinach with a longer stem. It is stir fried with garlic and beyond delicious.

In the Vegetable Garden

In Vietnam is everywhere. I can’t get enough. I am thrilled and slightly shocked that my food addiction is morning glory (also known as water spinach or bind weed). I have already emailed my good friend Trung, who is Vietnamese to find out from his mother if and where we can get it.

Morning Glory

Someone from England just told me that the seeds are starting to be banned in the UK. The vegetable is believed to have hallucinogenic properties. All I know is that I want it at every meal and feel very worried about not having it again. Hallucinogenic–no. Addictive–you betcha.

Hue–pronounced Hue–ey (of course we had always been saying Hugh).

This town has the crazy traffic and I am thrilled we both made it out alive.

The highlight for me was lunch at a nunnery (not catholic nuns, but female monks–with shaved heads). The lunch was all vegetarian and beyond delicious. It was wonderful to be hosted by these lovely ladies who were worse than any Italian grandmother insisting–in Vietnamese that we eat eat eat. I have never had or rarely needed such encouragement.

Hue has some interesting and fascinating things to see.

Temple

Temple

Temple

Temple

First are the tombs–it is stunning in this park are lovely water features and beautiful grounds. We really enjoyed our time here–despite the rain.

Royal Tomb

Royal Tomb

Same, Same

It Was Hot

Royal Tomb

Second is the Citadel–the former palace. They are in the process of refurbishing, reconstructing what had been damaged during the American war (that is what they call it they call it here). it is very similar to the forbidden city in China. It is huge and will be a wonderful tourist draw once they are finished. It was obvious that there had been a lot of fighting in the area. Bullet holes and bombing–nothing good comes out of war.

Royal Palace

Royal Palace

Royal Palace

Royal Palace

Model of Royal Palace

Of course there was an option to get dressed up like a Vietnamese king or a queen and sit in the royal throne–for a minimal fee. Next thing I know Marc and I are in costume and getting our make up done for our photo shoot. Hilarious.

King and Queen

Power

Beauty

Next… Hoi An…

On the Way to Hoi An

We took a 3 hour bus ride from Hanoi to Halong Bay. The sun was shining and it was HOT and humid. We boarded a junk boat and LOVED it. We were a bit worried because of the name. The wood boat was charming and the food was exceptional. In China, we ate a ton of fast food because so much of the food was questionable. In Vietnam, we have had nothing but deliciousness.

Departing to Halong Bay

Lime Stone

Halong Bay is just lovely. We intend to come back with a group of our own peeps. We walked through limestone caves that were so interesting and naturally occurring. Our tour guide pointed out various shapes in the ceiling.

View from the Caves

Cave One

Cave Two

Look Out

After the tour, Marc and I got into kayaks and went for a 2 hour kayak through Halong bay. The movie Indochine was filmed here. We were thrilled. The tsunami that took place a few weeks before left the water quite dirty. We didn’t see the cow head floating in the water. If we did, we would have probably rethought our great idea to go for a swim around the boat.

Kayaking

So Much Fun

The meals we had on the boat were the best we have had in weeks–some dishes get the title of best ever. We had prawns that were so fresh and delicious at every meal. We loved the dipping sauce–a little pile of sea salt and a wedge of lime. We will recreate this in YYZ.

Excellent Food

The issue I encountered, is that prawns still had eyeballs and legs when they were served. I didn’t even know that is what shrimp look like. I of course was frightened on them and since I have the greatest husband who ever walked the face of the earth, he removed the prawn’s head and legs for me and placed a shrimp that looked like it came from Pusateri’s on my plate. I heart Marc Bernard.

Our dinner companions were still so jet lagged, so they skipped dinner. We gladly ate their stuffed crab and prawns. We felt like we won the jackpot.

I bought a lovely pearl necklace in Halong bay. A girl from Australia said I looked just like Audrey Hepburn when I tried them on. Obviously they were sold after that.

New Pearls

Vietnam is officially kicking China’s ass.

Captain

Good bye China, Good morning Vietnam!

Good Morning Vietnam!
I say this EVERY MORNING

We arrived in Hanoi late. We had been warned by fellow travelers about the schemers, thieves, nerdowells that troll the airport. We encountered them, but avoided them and had a civilized ride to our hotel.

Welcome Flowers for Us

Vietnamese currency is a Dong. It is a hard to currency to deal with because of the inflation. 1,000 Dong is 6 cents. 17,000 Dong is one Dollar. Luckily, USD are used and gladly accepted everywhere.

There are a few things that stand out from our time in Hanoi. First–the traffic. I would still be standing on a corner in Hanoi if not for Marc. He figured out that you just need to start walking–despite the fact that you are walking into on coming traffic. I was not a fan of this system. Traffic lights are obviously for tourists only. While waiting at a red light, we watched in amazement the scooters fly through the intersection–while they were at a red light. Pedestrians do not have the right of way. Obviously I didn’t feel safe crossing the street. It is however a system that somehow works. 4 people on one scooter, no helmets flying through red lights, it is beyond me how there isn’t an accident every 2 minutes (you wouldn’t believe the volume of scooters), but there isn’t.

Hanoi Traffic

Restaurant Vietnamese Style

Now it is time to tell you about Bianca. Marc and I walked into a little store to buy water and low and behold, there is the most stunning cat on a little chain at the back of the store. She is pure white (when I was growing up, I used to have a pure white cat who wore a pink diamond collar and I couldn’t have loved him more). I promptly named this lovely beast Bianca (she actually named herself) and decided then and there that I wanted her. She had this ratty tatty as big as your thumb sticking out of her neck. She needed a bath and a pink diamond collar–but she was regal my friends–regal. My plan? Buy Bianca from the store owner (money does talk in this country) get her on a plane and send her to Hamilton until we get home. Marc started pointing out of a few issues with my plan. You actually can’t just send a cat to Canada from Vietnam. There are forms, vet visits, vaccines, quarantine period… So sadly Bianca is still at the store. We went back for a visit and she was fast asleep in a little box–still on a chain. I miss her already.

Bianca